MAN TIME. London Collections: MEN. SS/15. 1st past the post.

So, it’s that wonderful time of the year again, London Collections: MEN. For those of you that are new to the blog..I have been reviewing the International Fashion Week Collections here on the blog since its inception in 2009 and before that in my work life as a fashion buyer and consultant since the year 2000. Used as a process to analyse trends in colour, print, textiles, embellishment, cut, shapes for the season and styling ideas that will in turn influence design ideas across all disciplines. Favourite round-ups from past seasons can be seen here, here, here and here. However, this is the last of these fashion trend analysis posts up here and for free as I start work with a private client. Three cheers. Short and sharp reviews can be viewed over on my Instagram.

SUNSET HUES + SUMO STYLING at Astrid Andersen. Known for her highly sexualized approach to menswear, this collection did not disappoint. A trip to Japan piqued Astrid’s interest in the Asian persuasion of styling her clothes, which then played out in a new view of old favourites and with exotic punch – think see through panels, pockets, paisley and pretty laces plus sumo jackets and tres sportif boxing coats that fall to the floor. I must make mention of the most awesome man-apron a designer has ever put life breath into, a reinterpretation of the akesho-mawashi—which sumo wrestlers wear during their ring-entering ceremony. This is the GLOBAL VILLAGE trend in full force. Those NIKE suspender socks are HOT to trot too.

EMO AT LARGE + COOL COLLAGE at Christopher Shannon. Collaged elements, cutaways to reveal the skin and Shannon slogans on oversized tees shout teenage dream but were way more sophisticated than that. Shannon’s appetite for decoration and the handmade on reworked sportswear show us why he was just awarded the BFC/GQ Style menswear fund, with this his best collection yet. Collage and layering aka the SCISSOR SISTERS trend runs deep across all artistic disciplines, in a move towards more meaning, joy in flourish and in opposition to the minimalism years of late.

COLUMN DRESSING + MEMPHISMORPHIS at Nicomede Talavera. Inspired by Sol Lewitt, Louise Bourgeois’s textiles and Muslim boys standing outside of mosques (this sentence makes me homesick for London), makeup Talavera’s elegant take on all three in a complex construct of stripes, rigorous pleating and a melagne of national dress including kilts, tabards and jubbas. Luxe layering, gratuitous gingham and collaged elements over long tunic silhouettes complete the Middle East mashup. This is borrow from the boys menswear if I ever did see it. WANT.

PAGAN SCOUT + PATCHWORK LOUT at LIAM HODGES. This all-weather collection built for modern men in their search for community and modern ritual and perhaps a good rave is befit for the urban jungle and beyond. Mysticism, survival elements and a collage of sportswear separates took looking for meaning to a whole new level. The STYLE TRIBE trend evokes a sense of belonging, eccentricities and pagan practices most encouraged, wherever you are in the world.

TOP GUN + UTILITY CHIC at CHRISTOPHER RAEBURN. See through, sharp prints plus Raeburn’s trademark repurpose and camouflage make for a most sophisticated and sustainable uniform for street and mountain soldiers the world over. Bright hits of emergency orange, serious pockets and the best outerwear and backpacks out there make any mission manageable. The King of sustainability, Raeburn continues to fight for his holistic vision of eco-chic, commercial viability and cool and yes he is winning.